Day
One:
This
summer I visited Prague once again. I have been here three times
before. And I am convinced that I would like to come back here even
more often. This Czech capital is the European gem that continues to
surprise me over and over.
Flight
times were relaxed this time. Normally I choose early and cheap ones.
But at very early hours I'm just often not myself and have little
energy on arrival. The flight to Prague though takes a very short
time. We would have all evening for the city. Unfortunately, the
delay has taken away our evening hours in Prague. We arrived fairly
quickly by using the public transport. The bus 119 goes regularly to
the 'Dejvická' metro station, which is a terminus of the green line
and which goes through the city center. Traveling in Prague is cheap
and easy, one ticket is valid for all types of transport. And it is
not a huge city, therefore everything is relatively close. Within an
hour we arrived at the hotel. I was worried that due to our late
arrival, the room would have been cancelled. Fortunately it did not
happen, we checked in successfully and went down town to grab a bite.
Just before midnight it seemed almost impossible to get something to
eat. One kitchen after another closed and our quest for food became
more and more desperate. But then suddenly I remembered a “No Reservation” episode where Anthony Bourdain recommends a place
where people eat at night. It turned out to be an incredibly good
tip! At Wenceslas Square I found this particular food stall where you
can get a wide range of meat and baked cheese for the vegetarians
among us. It's an ideal alternative to get rid of the hunger when all
restaurants of town have closed their doors. We conclude this short
evening with a delicious Czech pilsner and went to the hotel to
regain strength for the next day.
Day
Two:
We
started at Mala Strana. Basically we skipped the most popular sites
and went for the hill point Strahov. Climbing up that hill is
absolutely worth for one of the most beautiful library in the world
and a splendid view of the city. The library has two different halls.
The theological hall is recognizable by it's playful Baroque style.
The other one is philosophical with the beautiful, tall, wooden
cabinets and a high ceiling. The corridor that connects the halls is
filled with the voyage collection from overseas, 17th
century turtles, a stingray, weapons and more.
Outside
we enjoyed the view a bit before going back down town. The best
panoramic view is probably the Renaissance tower of St. Vitus
cathedral. When we arrived there, the church was already closed, but
the tower was still accessible.
It
takes some effort to come up there, but the view is a magnificent
reward! Every time I was in Prague, I climbed this tower. It has
become a tradition and I could not skip it this time either. The
spiral staircase is dizzying and seems endless. The best way to walk
up is without a break. Just don't do it too fast, unless you're in a
hurry, of cource.
Mala
Strana was extremely crowded around the St. Vitus. Nearby were some
medieval games or workshops which attracted much attention. We left
this town site by strolling along the river. Next to the Karlov
bridge a large group of swans was hanging out or probably they were
used to the tourists that passed by and gave them snacks. Still it
was a nice combination of nature with ancient history of Prague in
the background. Then we arrived at the famous 'baby' statues next to
the Kampa museum. This part of the town is actually very pleasant,
green and quiet. For those who love Prague, but want to skip the
tourist crowds this spot is their place to be.
Day
Three:
About
seven years ago I was together with my husband in Czech Republic and
we were searching for little town Moravsky Krumlov, 'known' for it's
Slavic Epos exhibition. This oeuvre of Czech artist Mucha
was only accessible on particular months of the year and the town was
almost untraceable. It was a ghost town basically. We were the only
foreigners, other few visitors were Czechs, all of them came
temporary just for Mucha and then they would leave Moravsky Krumlov
as fast as they could.
Today
it takes a lot less effort to see this exposition. In fact that same
Slavic Epos moved to Prague's Veletržní
Palace. I wasn't thrilled about that news first, even though the
exposition was way easier to locate. My big fear was that Slavic Epos
would lose that special and mysterious aura from Moravia. To my
surprise, this new venue was almost perfect. The given hall was
spacious with good lightning and all twenty paintings came to their
best advantage. Perhaps the location was less unique, but Slavic Epos
was just as moving as it was seven years ago. I loved it.
Veletržní
Palace is located next to a metro station, red line comes to that
area. We travelled to the opposite direction: Vyšehrad.
That's a nice neighborhood on the hill which overlooks Vltava river,
Mala Strana and ofcourse the St. Vitus cathedral. Vyšehrad
is often skipped by tourists and therefore it's also a nice area to
walk around. And even here you'll find interesting sights. The most
famous one is the cemetery with local celebrities like Smetana,
Dvořák
and Mucha. The first two we found easily. Mucha's grave was 'hidden'
in the so called wall of fame: Slavin. It was just a small and basic
tomb while I was expecting something in Art Nouveau style.
On
this day I rediscovered Prague by getting to know two new
neighborhoods. Prague is so much more that astronomical clock and
Karlov Bridge. Evidently I knew that, but todays walk was an absolute
confirmation.
Day
Four:
Before
we returned to the airport we visited the Obecní dům.
This remarkable Art Nouveau building is used for all kind of art
disciplines. We visit another exhibition of Mucha here. For those who
have seen Mucha expos previously, it will have no particular
surprice. For me this was just an excuse to check the building from
the inside. The best rooms are only visible with a guided tour, I
understood. That then remains for the next time. Regardless of the
lack of surprise at the exhibition, Muchas posters remain a joyful
and inspirational experience. And so was the entire weekend. Prague
is such a fantastic, rich and vibant city. It's an inexhastible
source of inspiration and one of the most beautiful places of Europe.
Prague, we'll see each other soon!
