Kiev Day IV – Last Day

This day I discovered something new about Kiev. Our friends took us to a place I've never heard of. A day earlier they suggested to go to an open air museum of Ukrainian Architecture – Pyrohovo. I wasn't really exited about the idea first. To spend the last day downtown seemed like the only way. But the friends were right, the open museum Pyrohovo was an excellent choice for a farewell.

We met just outside the city center at Lybidska metro station. Before continuing we did some purchases for a picnic. Because there are no shops near museum and it is nice to get some food and drinks. From there we took a bus, which stopped in front of the entrance.

So basically Pyrohovo museum is a vast land where various types of ancient and modern buildings from different regions of Ukraine are. Sounds maybe dull, but it is anything but that. There are many hiking trails, which take you to different areas of Ukraine. There are not just buildings, nature is also a bit reconstructed. We took a walk to Carpathians, a bit hilly and forested part. We were a bit late in the day, so almost all buildings were closed. Normally you can also look inside the houses and get the idea of how people used to live.

Before dark we made our walk towards exit. Pyrohovo is not the type of museum where you just enjoy nature walks and Ukrainian history of architecture. When we ordered some food, the party broke loose. Ukrainian hits slammed out of the speakers while other visitors started dancing. Eventually our background music changed into a karaoke show until people were tired of each other singing and then the disco started again.

We had a great time together and before we knew it was time to get the last bus to Kiev. In the dark we searched for the exit of the museum while other visitors still partied. At this time it is a challenge to travel back. The roads weren't illuminated and it wasn't clear where public transport stops. Luckily we had a lot of locals along, so we didn't have to worry.

Together we took the bus and then the metro, where we had to say goodbye to our nice friends. Just a few hours later our flight to Simferopol, Crimea will depart.  

Kiev Day III – Independence Day

Instead of rushing to the center to the hustle and bustle of the Ukrainian party, we went first to the island of the entertainment: Hydropark. The main goal was to find the gym section which is still much in use. What you'll find here are the musclemen in Speedos pumping their iron on the rusty Soviet exercise equipment. Great place for people who are seeking for the profound glory of the Soviet past or for those who are in need of some exercise.

Hydropark is not just sporty. During the hot summer days, people can work on their tan, swim in the slightly polluted river Dnepr, eat fresh shashliki and party all night in clubs. It's a place where people get a feeling of holiday. Despite the great national party today, it was not very busy here. But as soon as we leave the island, we see a large flow of partygoers approaching the Hydropark. We left the place on time, or maybe not...

We have had an appointment with friends. They took us for a walk in the center. We met at the metro Zoloty Vorota. Just before the metro is a main entrance to the ancient city. This piece was reconstructed, because the Mongols destroyed the gate back in the 1240. We passed the beautiful Sofiyska square and entered the Andriyvsky uzviz. This whole street is filled with stalls selling antiques, nice pubs and a pleasant atmosphere. I was unfortunately too late for the house-museum of Mikhail Bulgakov, it was closed. But I did take the opportunity to pose with his statue.

We ended the walk in a nice rock pub with live music, good beer and snacks. Our company was very nice and the time passed quickly. It was not very late, but stragely enough the party in the city already last. We walked through Maidan to the next bar and it was very quiet. The bar we went to however was very busy. At the end of the day we tried to call the taxi, but it seemed that no car was available that night. After a long wait we were finally dropped off at the apartament.

Kiev Day II

Last time I was in Kiev, my husband and I were not able to view Lavra. Because of some kind important visit the whole area was closed to public. That was a big bummer.

This time we decided to go to Lavra first. The Kiev-Pechersk Lavra is a historic Orthodox Christian monastery situated on a hill and with a view at the river Dnepr.

From the Pecherska metro station it's about 10 minutes walk to the monastery. The entrance is immediately recognizable with a beautifully decorated gate. In front is a ticket service. Ordinary tickets to the terrain are very cheap.

Inside the Lavra are numerous architectural monuments. There are many churches, most of them are more beautiful on the outside. The area is partly destroyed during the Second World War, but everything has been reconstructed. The most preferred attraction of Lavra is probably the caves with the burials of monks and historical heroes. The visit to the caves is fascinating. You have to carry your own light source, which is a candle. The cave is like a labyrinth with small and dark corridors. The mummified bodies lie along the side of the path. You do walk along the bodies, but you can't really see them because they all covered with a cloth.

When the weather is nice, the stay here is very pleasant. The walks offer a nice view of the nature and architecture. Everywhere there are benches for resting and small shops selling drinks and snacks.

Near Lavra is an open air Museum of Great Patriotic War. The Motherland monument stands in the center of machine guns, tanks and statues which depict the horrors of war. It's a pretty large site overlooking river and Lavra.

From there we went walking to the Mariynsky park also overlooking the Dnepr river. Here again, if the weather is nice this place is ideal to spend the day. Outdoor cafes are everywhere. You can enjoy a walk or just sit and watch people passing by.

We walked through the park towards the Maidan square. The preparations for the independence day took place here. The beginning of Khreschatik was full of huge painted eggs, each one represented a different city of Ukraine.

The party has not begun yet, but the atmosphere was already very festive.

The night train to Kiev

The trains to Kiev or any other Ukrainian destinations leave from station "Kievskaya". My dad livers practically in front of the that station, which was extremely convenient. We only had to cross the road and find the train. The lights were out and it was nearly midnight, so we had to look for our beds in the dark. With a little effort we've given the suitcases a place and waited until the train left Moscow. Despite the poor condition of the train we left right on time. After some time the lights went finally on and the female conductor began to distribute the bedding.

Sleeping and or traveling in the Russian trains is lovely. But it is important to prepare properly otherwise the journey will be less comfortable. We chose the third class because of the finances, but also because of the experience. We wanted to travel as the local people. The disadvantage is that you sleep in an open space and people nearby may be inadequate. Generally the fellow travelers are decent people. One time I had bad luck. I was traveling near a sick child and when I got home I also immediately became ill. This time we did not bother people, odor or noise.

After I had made my bed, I had put on my comfortable, nice and warm clothes in which I could sleep. Besides the pleasant clothes, slippers were also very convenient to have. It gives you the opportunity to move freely through the train without taking the shoes off and on and off again. Cleansing wipes were a must, I felt fresh the entire trip. You get a towel along with the bedding, which is useful if you need to refresh yourself in the toilet. Take a compact bag for all the care routine stuff like toothbrush, hand soap and toilet paper. The toilet in the train was very dirty, but all my stuff on hand made my rituals easily and pleasant.

We slept very well. But we were awakened for a passport control twice. Once when leaving Russia and again when entering Ukraine. We left Russia in the autumnal cold, but in Ukraine it was still summer. When we woke up it was already sunny and warm.

The conductor sells tea and serves it in the typical Russian cup holders. In Moscow we bought some snacks which we had for breakfast together with the train tea.

The train arrived right on time in Kiev. The metro is very close to the train station exit. We bought coins and went looking for our apartment.